A Whirlpool dryer that tumbles but produces no heat is one of the most common appliance repair calls. Here are the five most likely causes in order of probability.
1. Thermal Fuse (Most Common)
The thermal fuse is a one-time safety device that blows when the dryer overheats. Once blown, the dryer runs but does not heat. It is located on the blower housing or exhaust duct. Test with a multimeter for continuity. No continuity means it is blown. Cost: $5-15.
Important: A blown thermal fuse usually means the vent is clogged. Always clean the vent before replacing the fuse or it will blow again.
2. Heating Element
The heating element is a coil of resistance wire that generates heat. Over time, the coil can break. Test with a multimeter — you should see 10-30 ohms of resistance. Open circuit (OL) means it is broken. Cost: $20-50.
3. Gas Valve Solenoids (Gas Dryers Only)
If you have a gas dryer, the gas valve solenoids are the most likely failure. The dryer may ignite briefly then stop heating. The igniter glows but the gas never opens. Replace the solenoid coils as a set. Cost: $15-30 for the set.
4. Igniter (Gas Dryers Only)
The igniter glows orange to ignite the gas. If it does not glow at all, it needs replacement. If it glows but gas never ignites, the solenoids are the problem (see above). Cost: $25-50.
5. High-Limit Thermostat
Similar to the thermal fuse but resettable. It cuts power to the heating element if the dryer overheats. Test for continuity. Cost: $5-15.
Finding Parts
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